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Norway Nordkapp 2003
Road Log

Day 1: Saturday, July 5th 2003 809/391km travelled
Dave and Dom start in Schwetzingen (~9:15) ---> Arne starts in Braunschweig (~13:00) --->
Burger King in Hannover-Lahe (~14:15) ---> Aabenraa, Denmark (~20:00)
  • Weather: Rainy mornings, very windy afternoons
  • Basically just riding fast on the Autobahn to get up north already!
  • Entered out first Scandinavian country: Denmark

Day 2: Sunday, July 6th 2003 357km travelled (not incl. ferry)
Aabenraa (~09:00) ---> Fredrickshavn (~13:00) ---> Colour Line Ferry in Fredrickshaven (~14:30) ---> Larvik, Norway (~21:00)
  • Weather: Still quite windy in Denmark, beautiful sunshine on the ferry though! Good omen!
  • Basically more riding fast on the highways to get to the ferry to take us up north already!
  • The cliche of Norwegians tanking up on booze on the ferry seems to have some truth to it. :-)
  • Compensated for though by plenty of sunbathing by folks on the boat decks.
  • Entered out second Scandinavian country: Norway
  • Introduction to the infamously ferocious indigenous mosquitos.
  • Second night in tent much better than first! In fact one of the best nights sleep I ever had!

Day 3: Monday, July 7th 2003 390km travelled
Larvik (~08:45) ---> Oslo (~10:30) ---> Hamar (~16:00) ---> Campsite in Koppang (~19:00)
  • Weather: Overcast but mostly dry! Light rain evenings and at night.
  • Breakfast at Esso gas station introduces us to our favorite pastry treat: the Wienerpecan.
  • Speed limit of 90 km/h is really quite slow! Fears of ever making it to the cape arise... :-)
  • Bit of city sightseeing in Oslo: harbor, castle, downtown.
  • Stopped in Hamar to see ice skating rink built for the 1994 Lillehammer Olympic Winter Games, reminiscent of an inverted viking-ship
  • While camping on a lush green pasture by a river is serene, bugs tend to like it there too...

Day 4: Tuesday, July 8th 2003 346km travelled
Koppang (~08:45) ---> Trondheim (~14:30-17:00) ---> Campsite near Asen (~19:30)
  • Weather: Sunny and dry! Rain in the evening.
  • Finding dinner was tough - but the campsite saved us with pizza and beer

Day 5: Wednesday, July 9th 2003 396km travelled (not incl. ferry)
Asen (~08:45) ---> E6 and Route 17 ---> First of many shorter ferry rides ---> Campsite near Torghatten (~19:30)
  • Weather: Overcast to rainy.
  • Only time we saw a cop parked by the road; at this point we'd relaxed our adherence to speed limits a bit, but didn't get his attention yet. :-0
  • Route 17 took us into fjord-land for the first time: Beautiful even under the clouds!
  • On my lead of the group, just before ending the day, had a close call with a pair of elks - or vice versa.

Day 6: Thursday, July 10th 2003 245km travelled (not incl ferry rides)
Torghatten (~08:45) ---> Fjords, fjords, fjords!!! ---> Bridges, bridges, bridges (throughout Norway) ---> Tunnels, tunnels, tunnels (and more to come too!) ---> Ferries, ferries, ferries (five of them) ---> Crossing of the arctic circle (while on a ferry) ---> Campsite near Foroy (~19:45)
  • Weather: Super sunny and pretty day.
  • Somewhat spoiled fun due to weather yesterday more than made up for today! Super scenery, excellent and twisty roads and few of them annoying cars and campers!
  • Did some laundry at the campsite, so no clothes-recycling necessary. :-)
  • Went out for a little 45 Minute run - how often can you run gaping at fjords?

Day 7: Friday, July 11th 2003 220km travelled (not incl ferry)
Foroy (~08:55) ---> Fjords, fjords, fjords!!! ---> Bodo ---> Ferry from Bodo to Moskenes on the Lofoten ---> Campsite near Sand on the Lofoten (~21:30)
  • Weather: Super sunny and pretty day.
  • Morning swim in the fjord after much convincing by Dominik.
  • Just after the arrival at Moskenes we found an internet cafe, from where some of you received an email
  • Nice evening ride to the campsite
  • Midnight sun viewing - frst night without darkness

Day 8: Saturday, July 12th 2003 367km travelled (not incl ferry)
Sand (~09:30) ---> E10 and route 825 ---> Campsite in the mountains somewhere (~21:00)
  • Weather: Overcast day. Light rain evening and night.
  • Fun riding along the coast on the Lofotens
  • The meat-eaters among the group actually tried whale for lunch. Shame on you! I stuck to vegetarian fries. :-)

Day 9: Sunday, July 13th 2003 327km travelled (not incl ferries)
Mountain campsite (~10:00) ---> E10 ---> Tromso ---> Campsite in Fosselv (~22:00)
  • Weather: Pretty chilly night. Sunny but chilly day; one of the rare days to wear long underwear.
  • Awoken by a herd of bell-equipped sheep browsing the campsite.
  • Made it to breakfast and a gas station practically on fumes. Dave put 21.76l of gas in his 21l tank...
  • Another day with a few ferry rides.
  • Met an italian couple riding a chopper to the cape also having problems with their cooling fan.
  • Dominik was conversationally attacked by a chatty elderly German lady camping for a few weeks at Fosselv. Damn, she liked to talk! I was conveniently "taking a nap" in the tent - out of sight. Sorry, Dom. :-)

Day 10: Monday, July 14th 2003 336.2km travelled
Fosselv (~10:00) ---> E6, Route 91 ---> Glacier ---> Alta ---> Campsite in Hammerfest (~22:20)
  • Weather: Another sunny day. And it's warm again too!
  • Fled campsite before the lady managed to get us again.
  • Detoured to see one of the few glaciers still reaching down to sea-level.
  • Checked out the rock carvings in Alta.
  • Plenty of reindeer en-route and at Hammerfest.

Day 11: Tuesday, July 15th 2003 346.2km travelled
Hammerfest (~09:00) ---> Honnigsvag ---> Nordkapp!!! ---> Campsite in Russenes (~21:45)
  • Weather: Another sunny day. Procrastinated a bit too long in Honnigsvag, and thus missed getting sunshine at the Nordkapp by minutes. Overcast afternoon, rain shower in the evening.
  • Morning invasion of the campsite by a herd of reindeer.
  • Tightened up my chain.
  • We reach 71 10' 21'' Nordkapp!
  • Wrote a ton of postcards in the Nordkapp visitors center. Hope all you receivers are grateful! :-)
  • Opted out of camping near the Nordkapp, as it's pretty windy up there!

Day 12: Wednesday, July 16th 2003 279km travelled
Russenes (~11:00) ---> Lakselv ---> Karasjok ---> Campsite in Kautokeino (~16:45)
  • Weather: Sunny and hot (muggy) day. A little drizzle for dinner.
  • It's all south from now on... :-(
  • Met a 79(!!!) year old Goldwing-equipped-with-yelling-GPS-biker from Switzerland.
  • Souvenir shopping at "Juhls" in Kautokeino, the secret "Sami capital"

Day 13: Thursday, July 17th 2003 401km travelled
Kautokeino (~09:00) ---> Finland ---> Sweden ---> Campsite in Gaellivare, Sweden (~18:00)
  • Weather: Sunny and warm day.
  • Entered our third Scandinavian (is it though?) country: Finland. At lest for a few minutes. :-)
  • Souvenir shopping and/or spending of Norwegian Kroner and tax redemption at tourist traps in Finland
  • Entered our fourth Scandinavian country: Sweden
  • Roads are straighter in Sweden, but speed limits are higher.
  • No more coins needed for the showers in Sweden!
  • Large and nice campsite within walking distance to downtown Gaellivare and the food and drink there.

Day 14: Friday, July 18th 2003 419km travelled
Gaellivare (~08:30) ---> Dundret ---> Jokkmokk ---> South across the arctic circle ---> Campsite in Storuman (~16:15)
  • Weather: Sunny and warm day. Brief rain shower after setting up of the tents.
  • City sightseeing in minig town Gaellivare: Old wooden train station
  • Sightseeing of "10% of Sweden" from Dundret mountain.
  • Back across the arctic circle to places with darkness at night.
  • First sunset in a while.
  • It's laundry time again.

Day 15: Saturday, July 19th 2003 458.2km travelled
Storuman (~09:20) ---> Brief attempt at detouring, ended when reaching gravel roads ---> Storuman ---> Dave gets gravel fun (Dom and I get gravel hell) after all on E45 ---> Wilhelmina ---> Campsite near Oestersund (~20:30)
  • Weather: Sunny and warm day.
  • Briefly celebrated breaking the 50.000km mark on the odometer of my Suzuki
  • Took a 1h run, also crossing this pretty bridge while Dave and Domink enjoy beers and cigars; the latter turned out to be the most effective mosquito repellent

Day 16: Sunday, July 20th 2003 441.1km travelled
Oestersund (~09:30) ---> Non-gravel detour via 311 and 70 ---> Campsite near Mora (~20:30)
  • Weather: Sunny and warm day again.
  • Found a nice, curvy and paved detour with scenery to take

Day 17: Monday, July 21st 2003 373.1km travelled
Mora (~10:00) ---> Uppsala ---> Campsite in Bromma (~22:30)
  • Weather: Sunny and warm day again.
  • Decision is made to see if we can replace some of our tires ASAP
  • Uppsala sightseeing: Castle and Universtity
  • Time got out of hand and we barely made it to a campsite on time to get a spot.

Day 18: Tuesday, July 22nd 2003 311.5km travelled
Bromma (~10:00) ---> Bike shop for tire change in Stockholm ---> Campsite near Vaestervik (~22:30)
  • Weather: Dry morning, rainy lunch, dry evening.
  • Dom and Dave get tires changed, mine were not available...
  • Stockholm sightseeing: Downtown, markets and Parliament
  • Stayed up till midnight drinking whisky to celebrate Dom's birthday

Day 19: Wednesday, July 23rd 2003 456.2km travelled
Vaestervik (~09:10) ---> Karlskrona ---> Ystad ---> Campsite near Smygehamn (~20:45)
  • Weather: Sunny and dry
  • After a long drought and just in time for Dominiks' birthday we can have Wienerpecans for breakfast again!
  • First time we had to try three campsites to find a spot for our tents.
  • And more whiskey for Dominiks birthday.

Day 20: Thursday, July 24th 2003 622.2km travelled
Smygehamn (~09:00) ---> Trelleborg ---> Bridges and Tunnels to Denmark ---> Copenhavn ---> Ferry from Rodby, Denmark to Puttgarden, Germany ---> My place in Braunschweig (~23:00)
  • Weather: Sunny initially, overcast and drizzly noonish, dry afternoon, heavy rain on arrival in Germany
  • More but sadly also the final Wienerpecans for breakfast at campsite
  • Lunch, a little sightseeing and some souvenir shooping in Copenhavn
  • Not wanting to set up tent in torrential downpurs we opt to do some extreme Autobahn riding to my dry apartment in Braunschweig. Five minutes from home, after 7000+km of uneventful riding, Me and Dominik enter the horizontal in a tight, wet turn in Braunschweig. Thankfully everyones fine, but an unfortunate end to an otherwise excellent trip!

© 2003-2005
A. Stuermer
Update: 08/26/05

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